Review: Real Art Perfect Cleansing Oil

By: Sarah Bond

 
 

     We are reviewing Etude House's Real Art Perfect Cleansing Oil for this article. The cleansing oil is featured on many korean skincare websites like Memebox and Sokoglam. Etude House is famed for its quality makeup and likewise it makeup removers. They have an entire line dedicated to cleansing the face. Its called the Real Art collection it includes the Mild Cleansing Oil, Moisture Cleansing Oil, No-wash Cleansing Water, and Hydrating No-wash Cleansing Water. We decided to test out this well-known makeup remover.

RESEARCH

INGREDIENTS

  • Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract
  • Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba, commonly know as White Meadowfoam, is a commonly harvested plant for the use of its seed oil. Composition of the seed oil is 98% fatty acid, containing the beneficial components, tocopherol, docosadienoic acid, and eicosenoic acid. The anti-oxidant properties and chemical stability of the meadowfoam seed oil is due to the long chain fatty acid composition, which ultimately in skin care application to prevent skin aging. It is also important to mention that it has also been found to increase chemical stability and shelf life of other ingredients in composition. Meadowfoam seed oil also slows transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Tocopherol, which is found in Vitamin E, prevents skin dehydration by providing the skin with a water barrier. Last to mention, the oil solubility of this ingredient also aids in removing oil impurities from the skin.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract

The butyrospermum Parkii (known as Shea) butter extract comes from the shea-tree native to Central Africa. This oil's composition approximately contains 45-50% oleic (omega 9) acid, 30-41% stearic acid, 5-9& palmitic acid, and 4-5% linoleic acid. This composition is more familiarly known as containing Vitamins A, E, and F. The shea butter extract has a well-known history of medicinal use for its anti-inflammatory, emollient, and humectant properties. The anti-inflammatory qualities of shea butter make this extract excellent in the application of skin care to reduce redness as well as increase the healing rate of irritated and damaged skin. The emollient and humectant properties both make shea butter extract an excellent skin moisturizer. Shea butter extract is also found to be an ultraviolet filter; however, its capacity to absorb sunlight is limited, and it should be noted that the main use of the shea butter extract is not to attenuate UV radiation, but to aid in healing sun-damaged skin. 

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil

Oryza Sativa, known as Asian rice, bran oil is used in many Korean skin care products as a skin conditioning agent.  This oil contains the approximate percentage of the following fatty acids: 0.6% myristic acid, 21.5% palmitic acid, 2.9% stearic acid, 38.4% oleic acid, 34.4% linoleic (omega 6) acid, and 2.2% alpha-linolenic (omega 3) acid (ALA containing Vitamins A and E). Vitamin E as mentioned before is excellent at slowing TEWL by creating a water barrier. The anti-oxidant properties of the rice bran oil also mentioned earlier also aids in preventing skin aging.

OTHER INGREDIENTS

Isopropyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Peg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Peg-8 Isostearate, Dextrin Palmitate, Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Fragrance

Isopropyl Palmitate - solvent, skin conditioning agent, emollient, binder, similar to a lubricant, sourced from oil

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate - binder, viscosity controlling, emollient

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate - binder, viscosity increasing, emollient, emulsifying, surfactant

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate - emollient, antimicrobial, viscosity increasing, UV absorber

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - fragrance, skin conditioning, emollient, dispersing agent, solvent

Peg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate - skin-conditioning, emollient, surfactant, emulsifying agent

Peg-8 Isostearate - surfactant, cleansing agent, emulsifying agent

Dextrin Palmitate - anticaking agent, surfactant, emulsifying agent,

Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate - anticaking agent, surfactant, emulsifying agent

Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate - emollient, surfactant, emulsifying agent

Fragrance - deodorant

EFFECTS ON SKIN

     All of the key ingredients have similar qualities. Limnanthes alba seed oil has anti-oxidant properties which prevent skin aging. It is also increases shelf life of other ingredients. The seed oil also slows transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and prevents dehydration with a water barrier over the skin. The solubility of the oil also aids in removing oil impurities from the skin. The shea butter extract has a well-known for its anti-inflammatory, emollient, humectant, and UV filter properties. The anti-inflammatory reduce redness as well as increase the healing rate of irritated and damaged skin. The emollient and humectant properties moisturize the skin. UV protection aids in healing sun-damaged skin. Oryza sativa bran oil is excellent at slowing TEWL by creating a water barrier. The anti-oxidant properties of the rice bran oil also aids in preventing skin aging. After researching the other ingredients we found that isopropyl palmitate and some other ingredients are extrapolated from oils. These ingredients are therefore similar to oil in their behavior making them great lubricants that can break down makeup. Another interesting find was C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate with is antimicrobial and a UV absorber along with a viscosity increasing agent and emollient. The antimicrobial agent is a great cleansing factor and the UV absorber helps break down sunscreen and makeup. Other ingredient are emollients, anticaking agents, emulsifying agents, solvents, and surfactants. These ingredients break down organic impurities on the skin and dissolve them. 

TRIAL

     I tried out the Real Art Perfect Cleansing Oil by Etude House a few weeks ago after I had ran out of Etude Houses' One Shot O-Le-Mong Sherbet Cleanser. I generally wear heavy to light make up throughout the week. Some days I use primer, concealer, bb cream, eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, lipstick, blush, and highlighter other days I prefer wearing only concealer, eyeliner, lipstick, and blush. Because of the variation I used the cleanser multiple times with different amounts of makeup. This cleansing oil comes in a small bottle with a pump making it easy to gather the proper amount of solution you may need. And on my heavy makeup days it removed my makeup easily I did not even need a full pump to remove everything including my volumizing mascara. Lighter makeup days were even easier. From what I could smell there wasn't much of a fragrance to the remover. Directions for using the remover are pretty simple. First, with clean hands, apply a small nickle sized amount to the palm. After rub the remover around your hands and apply to the face rubbing the fingers in small circles. After all the makeup is absorbed in the remover, emulsify your hands in water and rub the face again. This should increase the viscosity of the makeup remover and make it easier to wash off. The last step is just to wash off the remover. 

REVIEW

     The item is a bit pricey compared to the other makeup removers I have used. But the bottle holds 185 milliliters of the remover and only a small amount is necessary to remove makeup. So I would say the amount of uses in the bottle makes the price more than reasonable. Of course the quality of the actual remover is above the standard removers out there. Its very fast acting and efficient in removing all of your makeup with a small amount. Regardless of the amount of makeup you may apply it still is quick at removing it. The pump design is also a great feature, facilitating the application. The actual serum has no real scent that I could detect. The ingredients are straightforward and it has many are oils and work to break down impurities like makeup and others that help the skin by building a moisture barrier. 

Sources

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

https://www.astridanaturals.com/meadoawfoam-seed-oil-benefits                                             https://www.skinstore.com/beauty-center/ingredients/limnanthes-alba.list http://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/Meadowfoam_Seed_Oil/1059 http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/limnanthes-alba-meadowfoam-seed-oil http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/092666909500035B

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/14356007.a10_173/abstract;jsessionid=3A3D4A688AB9E8E07B14E8119AF5E730.f02t04
https://books.google.com/books?id=6iQjwr9v84gC&printsec=frontcover&dq=shea+butter&hl=en&sa=X&ei=jkX5ULH7 McijigKBp4HoBw&ved=0CEAQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=shea%20butter&f=false
http://products.skinglowbykimmarie.com/ori_shea_butter.htm
http://skinglowbykimmarie.com/blog/?page_id=2
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf100409v
http://www.belvynaglobal.com/classification-and-uses-of-shea-butter

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil

http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10915810600964626?journalCode=ijtb
https://www.annmariegianni.com/rice-bran-oil-for-skin-the-deeply-hydrating-anti-aging-ingredient/ 
http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/oryza-sativa-rice-bran-oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17090480
http://www.beautyandtips.com/beauty-2/rice-bran-oil-benefits-for-skin-and-hair/

Other Ingredients

https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/703207/ISOPROPYL_PALMITATE/#.WXj01YQrKUk
http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-palmitate
https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isopropyl-palmitate
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/704740/PENTAERYTHRITYL_TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE/#.WXj2QYQrKUk
https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/pentaerythrityl-tetraethylhexanoate
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/704741/PENTAERYTHRITYL_TETRAISOSTEARATE/#.WXj2n4QrKUk
http://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/texture-enhancer/pentaerythrityl-tetraisostearate.html
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/700898/C12-15_ALKYL_BENZOATE/#.WXj3Q4QrKUk
https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/c12-15-alkyl-benzoate
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701056/CAPRYLIC/_CAPRIC_TRIGLYCERIDE/#.WXj35IQrKUk
https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglycerides
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/704554/PEG-20_GLYCERYL_TRIISOSTEARATE/#.WXj4mIQrKUk
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/721921/PEG-8_ISOSTEARATE/#.WXj5moQrKUk
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701901/DEXTRIN_PALMITATE/#.WXj6K4QrKUk
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/718303/DEXTRIN_PALMITATE%3B%3BETHYLHEXANOATE/#.WXj6qIQrKUk
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/719246/GLYCERYL_BEHENATE%3B%3BEICOSADIOATE/#.WXj7BYQrKUk
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/702512/FRAGRANCE/#.WXj7hYQrKUk
Sarah Bond